We woke up at 5 this morning and by 6 were out the door and on
the bus with boxed up breakfasts. After a 4 hour drive, we arrived at Jane
Goodall’s Chimp Eden! Chimps that were abused, raised as pets in captivity, or
who have had rough lives are rescued and sent here to live and “just be
chimps.” Our guide, Clayton, explained to us all about the chimps. He’d only
been working there for 6 months, but knew each chimp not only by name, but also
all of their quirks and stories. They were really rowdy animals! They all had
their way of getting food from Clayton. One made raspberry noises and spit,
another clapped, one hollered and threw a screaming temper tantrum, one walked
on his hind legs and beat his chest, and yet another threw things at Clayton
hoping to get his attention. Chimp Eden is also home to Tony, the oldest chimp
in the world at 69 years. Another enclosure contained another clan of chimps,
of which an alpha male called Cozy exerted his dominance over the group. To do this, he
enjoyed throwing rocks and other things at us, causing the whole group to duck
every time he was armed. He also walked on his hind legs and puffed his hair up to make him look bigger. Our guide told us he was castrated; therefore, he overdid his exhibition of masculinity so people would have no doubt that he was the dominant male.
We ate lunch there; I had a chicken mayo sandwich with some
orange juice. Some people shopped around for souvenirs and such, then soon we
were off to our next destination— Hotel Numbi in Hazyview, South Africa. Our
room is amazing; it’s giant and spacious with a tall ceiling with a thatched
roof. Huge beds, African decoration, and a large bathroom all fill it. The
hotel is one of the prettiest hotels I have ever been to. Lakes, waterfalls,
fountains, and flowers are all over the grounds along with some signs warning
about animals (pythons, crocodiles, and hippos). We hiked around a good bit and
even thought we spotted a hippo! Unfortunately, we soon realized it was made of
stone, but it sure had us fooled for a while! Another things Victoria and I
discovered was this chain of caterpillars. At first, she mistook it for a snake
and it scared her to death; but caterpillars linked, one after the other, to
create the massive moving chain. We lounged by the pool for a bit and hung out
in the hammocks; it was nice to have some time to enjoy the beautiful place
surrounding us.
That evening we loaded up in the car once again to visit the
Shaagan Chief’s village. The Shaagans are a tribe in South Africa. During the
drive while crossing a bridge, someone spotted a hippo in the water below. Wild
hippo sightings are rare, and Rudolph even turned the van around and recrossed
the bridge so we could see them again. There was not only one hippo, but two!
Once at the village, the immediately showed off lots of
beautiful handmade things that we could purchase. There were so many cool
things that I just wanted it all, but I ended up getting three things that I
particularly like and plan to give as present once home. While shopping, one
local brought our group a platter of “orderves.” This included fried
caterpillars! I did not try one (I have no desire to be sick), but I’m sure
they were really… tasty. After grappling with the slow credit card machine to
purchase our new treasures, we were led down a path to the witch doctor’s hut.
This woman uses bones to read oracles and can tell a person’s future by which
way they fall. Natural medicine is another specialty of hers and she introduced
to us a menagerie of native plants that could heal various ailments.
We then met the chief of the Shagaans— he was wearing a real
cheetah skin! He was pretty cool, until he decided that he wanted me to be his
forth wife. I joked with him that it was too much work. Shagaan wives have a
lot of work given to them. In fact, the first wife chooses the second, the
second the third, and so on just to minimize the work load. He assured me that
he’d give me an easy job and offered me two cows. Tempting, I told him cars
would be much more persuasive, but I would ask for my parents permisson because
“that’s what we do in America.” He invited me to sit next to his thrown and
even hold his staff; had the tribal chief not been hitting on me I would have
been honored. I’m happy for the cool pics though!
We were then led to the tribal performance area where the
people of the tribe sang and danced for us. It was incredible; their voices
meshed in perfect harmony and their dancing was quick and graceful. They
imitated several animals and hunting them. I was also impressed by how high the
guys could kick. Apparently, girls like those who can kick the highest. After
performing for a while members of the crowd were invited to join in. Of course
I just had to go! It was a blast; we circled the fire holding hands and stepped
in rhythm. It kind of reminded me of the people in Whoville. A cute little
Shagaan woman danced and sang with me. I feel like I could easily be a member
of that tribe (maybe not the chief’s 4th wife though)! They took an
intermission and we ate traditional African dinner with them: chicken,
potatoes, butternut squash, a nut and corn mix, homemade bread, and fruit
kabobs. For some reason the chief decided to sit and eat with us and literally
did not take his eyes off of me the entire time. I avoided looking at him, but
everyone said he just kept on staring. Needless to say, I felt quite
uncomfortable! Guess American sarcasm does not translate well in their
language. When it was time to leave he stood right next to the exit nodding and
shaking hands with people as they left. When I tried to casually shake and
leave however, he would not let go of my hand and in butchered English said,
“You come back” “wife” “back here.” Trying to let go of his hand, I smiled and
said “yeah…I’ll be back!” That satisfied him, “good, good,” he said. I learned
a valuable lesson today: do not flirt with polygamist chiefs of tribes because
they WILL take you seriously!
Next time, I will have to come along on the trip as a chaperone and protect you from the tribal chiefs! Can't wait to see these photos! Sounds like you are having a great adventure! Stay safe and far from those tribal leaders!
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